On July 11th, I went to Newfoundland. I had something to attend in Ottawa at the end of July, so I figured if I was going to be on the eastern side of the country, I might as well make it part of a larger trip. The intention was to explore the western side of Newfoundland (specifically Gros Morne and area), get to Labrador and “see what’s there”, and explore PEI.
First, the travel logistics. Fortunately at the time, Air Canada had flight passes on sale (they called it the Explore Canada flight pass), which gave people four one-way flights (or two people two one-way flights, i.e. a round trip for two) to and from Western Canada to anywhere else in the rest of the country, for $1020 + 5% GST. It was $900 if you restricted your travel to either Tuesdays or Saturdays, but the timing did not work out for that option. Normally a round trip to Newfoundland would be about CAD$800 per person, so this represented about a 40% discount from usual prices for domestic travel. I snapped at the offer and also bought the Atlantic Pass because the itinerary would take us through PEI and then to Ottawa. The remainder of the Western Canada pass would be used to get from Ottawa back to Vancouver. The Ottawa part was “business” so I’ll just write about Newfoundland, Labrador and PEI.
I would have never have done this trip, purely for economic reasons, if the flight pass was not available. It would have been way too expensive.
The second issue dealt with car rental. Finding a car around Deer Lake, NL was impossible, so the flight coming into Newfoundland was through Gander, NL, which was a 300km drive away from Deer Lake. I have no problem driving long distances as long as the traffic is not stop-and go. Complicating matters somewhat was that the car rental had 1800km free on it before they started to ding you (25 cents per km), and I suspected that we would be around 400km over (which we were). It was an expensive rental (about $570 which included all taxes and the overage for 9 days), but was well worthwhile as it would be impossible to get around the island via any other route. Apparently there has been a shortage of rental cars, and the tourist associations in the province have been grumbling about it. PEI had no problems with availability (and no pesky mileage limit).
The third dealt with accommodations. We ended up doing a mix of camping and bed and breakfasts throughout the trip. The only hassle about the camping was that packing all the equipment into suitcases and backpacks was a real pain in the ass, but we managed. The security restrictions on luggage is particularly annoying – specifically with camp fuel. We did bring an attachment to a camp propane tank which we subsequently used to boil water and cook with. The camping at Gros Morne was good, the mosquitoes were nearly non-existent except for the last day, and there were fires allowed. The bed and breakfasts were fine – we just needed a hot shower and a bed, and we were able to find availability on them with little notice.
The flight to Gander involved a 3:30am arrival into St. Johns, and a 9:30am flight out to Gander, so the six-hour stopover was particularly draining (especially due to the 4.5 hour time zone difference). We eventually made it to Gander, hit a Walmart and loaded up on camping-type food and a camp propane tank, and made our way to Gros Morne.
The main highway in Newfoundland cuts through territory which is very sparsely populated, and is quite boggy in nature, with lakes all over the place. There is very little signs of civilization between these points, save the occasional camping site or two and the sparse amount of traffic around you.
Gros Morne park is a location of geology – it is a prime example of the Earth’s mantle exposed to the surface. It is also the northern point of the Appalachian Mountain range and has been significantly eroded over time. While in BC terms the mountain range is not very tall, locally it is.
Some highlights of this part of the trip –
1. Taking a ferry into Western Brook Pond. It was quite windy (and a bit of rain) that day, but the geology of the cliffs surrounding the lake was magnificent. The pictures don’t quite capture it. Apparently the lake was formerly a fjord, but was cut off from the ocean. It is now a freshwater lake, and it has salinity so low that it cannot conduct electricity. As it is a very resource poor lake, algae and other components of the food chain do not grow well there, and as a result, there is not a large population of fish.
2. The area around Western Brook Pond (boggy) was also interesting in its own right.
3. Listening and experiencing a genuine Newfoundland band play and tell stories. The way they turn on and off the accent is quite amazing.
4. The Tablelands is the number one location that you must explore if you are in the area. On one side of the U-shaped valley there is a barren patchwork of mountains (exposed mantle), while on the other side is a regular mountain of trees. On the mantle side is the tablelands, and the plant life in that area is extremely adapted for the conditions – they lie low and grow very slowly. It also had the most dense cluster of carnivorous plants I have seen – mainly Sundews and Pitcher Plants. If I had more energy on the trip I would have climbed one of the mountains, but there were other parts to be seen.
5. Trout River is a small fishing community close to the Tablelands, and is an example of the size of towns that dot the Newfoundland coast.
6. Broom Point was manned by a lady named Louise Decker who gave some very interesting insights on being a fisherwoman (before the days when it was politically correct to be a fisherwoman, opposed to a fisherman), and aptly demonstrated her total competence in the field of fisheries. She also had some interesting insights on the fishing industry in general (the mismanagement, and causes of the collapse of the cod industry in Canada).
After this, we proceeded to drive further up the Newfoundland northern peninsula – and this will be for another post. (Part 2 is posted here)