Over a couple months ago, I went out on a camping trip with a bunch of friends. This was at a place that wasn’t on most maps, roughly east of Manning Park (and not in any park boundaries).
It required driving about 30-35km along a forest service road, of which approximately a third was deactivated. Now, while my friends had an Toyota SUV, I had my 1988 Cutlass Supreme, which surprisingly made it there and back, but it took some damage along the way. The first problem was that I noticed the car made these rumbling noises when it started up, and when accelerating through 45km and 85km (those speeds exactly). The second problem was that my transmission fluid was leaking. I only detected this by the splotch on the bottom of the concrete one day.
As my car otherwise was mechanically sound (or as sound as it could be for being 20 years old), I decided to try my luck at fixing the transmission fluid problem. It so happened that the clearance on the bottom of my car was exactly an inch greater than the width of my head, so I was able to get underneath my car without too much difficulty. I eventually saw that the bottom of the transmission pan was extremely dirty, but also wiped it off a bit with paper towels and WD40 and determined that there were a few screws that were clearly leaking red (transmission) fluid.
I eventually tried some fixes that didn’t work (using duct tape, and also using some transmission sealant from Canadian Tire) but what eventually turned out to be the problem was that the screws holding the bottom pan to the transmission were extremely loose. So I monkey wrenched it tighter, and much to my surprise, the transmission fluid stopped leaking.
This still didn’t fix the rumbling noises that the car had when starting up (especially cold) and on acceleration at those two speeds.
So I eventually thought that I would have a $2500-3000 repair job ahead of me, mainly to replace the transmission when it craps out. On a 20 year old car, this would be a grand waste of money. So I had to get rid of my car as it was imminently obvious that something was going to go wrong, very wrong, very soon. I guess the lesson here is not to go up deactivated forest service roads with an Oldsmobile.
There were a lot of options to getting rid of my car, but the easy one was the provincial Scrap-It program. The eligibility criteria is simple – your car has to be made in 1995 or earlier; you have to have owned, insured and operated the car for the past year in BC; and your car has to be in operating condition when you drive it to the scrapyard – you cannot have your old car towed in. Once approved, there are irrelevant options for transit passes and other stuff, but the primary benefit is to get a huge discount off of the purchase of a new or used car at a very large list of dealerships.
The discount depends on how much greenhouse gasses less your new car emits compared to the one you had scrapped – they have a calculator that is available online. Over 3 years, if the difference is 4 tonnes or more, you will get $2000 from Scrap-it. If the difference is 2 to 4 tonnes, you will get $1000. If it is less than 2 tonnes, you will get $500. In addition, you will get $250 off at the dealership.
So the trick was shopping for a car that ideally emitted 4 tonnes less than my existing car, to get the maximum benefit. This, combined with a car having good trunk space, and air conditioning, and automatic transmission.
I looked at shopping for used vehicles, but I decided against a used car because the cost differences between used and new vehicles (of smaller, more fuel efficient type cars) was cutting it quite close numerically (in terms of valuing “risk” and depreciation and such). This kind of surprised me as five years ago, the comparison of a used vs. new car was much wider – i.e. a used car was much more economical to purchase. This is presumably due to high fuel prices increasing demand for older, more fuel efficient vehicles. Now that economic difference between used and new cars was slight, I decided to pay the extra since I didn’t want to deal with potential problems and wanted to know that what I was driving was something I owned from day zero.
I made a spreadsheet containing the differences in features between different models. I ended up trying a few cars before deciding one. A few items struck out at me:
1. Toyota and Honda cars are a lot more expensive for similar features.
2. Hybrid vehicles, once you factor in the Federal and Provincial tax rebates, are still not worth it (although the gap is quickly closing). In terms of performance and size, the Prius is horrible unless if you know you will be driving in heavily urban stop-and-go traffic a lot.
3. The other car, the Toyota Yaris, that qualified for tax rebates, is a death-trap because the dashboard console is in the middle of the car and not on the side (as most cars are). I tend to look at my tachometer and speedometer quite often while driving, and looking to the side is much more dangerous than looking down. Otherwise the car is fine, especially if you do not anticipate having more than two people drive in it.
4. Most cars, on paper, are quite similar. They are also quite similar in terms of physical appearance except for cargo space. And in this class of car that I was looking at, they all tended to drive quite similarly (except for the hybrid, for obvious reasons).
5. Most cars have a “basic” model, and they have a package that for an extra $1200, you can get air conditioning. For another 500-800 on top of that, you can get a lot of other extras (power windows, cruise control, etc.). If air conditioning is not required for your decision, then getting the basic model is worth it. If getting air conditioning is required, then getting the “next step up” is economically worth it.
6. Toyota and Honda don’t budge on price very much, probably reflecting the fact that most of the cars you see on the road today are one of these two brands.
I eventually decided on a Hyundai Elantra, and ended up getting the full $2000 from Scrap-it 6 weeks after I handed in the paperwork. After factoring in taxes ($250 at the dealership plus GST/PST, $2000 plus GST from Scrap-It), that amounted to a $2380 savings – approximately $1500 more than what ICBC says the book value of my old car was.
Financially speaking, when I work out the initial cash expenditure, and look at future cash flows that I will save with gasoline (saving about 35% of fuel consumption) and maintenance (offset by slightly higher insurance costs), I estimate that the internal rate of return on this purchase is approximately +6% compared to if I had remained with my old vehicle. There is also the intangible benefit of knowing that my car won’t explode every time I turn on the ignition.
Having driven the car for just under 2 months, I am quite happy with it. It had all of the features I was looking for, and had a superior price point, plus it emitted 4.02 tonnes of GHGs less than my previous car, which made it eligible for the maximum scrap-it bonus. I highly suspect that Scrap-It will become too popular and will likely have their benefits reduced in the near future.